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Amalfi Coastline
Amalfi, Positano, Ravello, Vietri and other places not to be missed
Land of colors and fragrances, birthplace of Torquato Tasso, retreat for such artists and writers as Caruso and Wagner, who found inspiration in this splendid corner of Campania. The Sorrento Peninsula and the Amalfi Coast host an enticing pageant of blue seas, jagged coastlines, lush hills and delightful towns: Sorrento, Amalfi, Positano, Ravello, Vietri...
This itinerary is a kind of tour of the Sorrento Peninsula and the Amalfi Coast, with stops in the most interesting historical and artistic localities. It will take a few days to complete by car, or using the numerous buses that connect the towns and villages of this wonderful part of Campania. You can start in the Sorrento peninsula and make your way to Amalfi, or choose one or two towns as your home base and make daily excursions of discovery to the surrounding areas, returning in the evenings to one of the Positanno hotels or Ravello hotels that you have chosen.
- Amalfi
Amalfi was originally a Roman colony, which gained more and more importance over the centuries, and after the fall of the empire it became a diocese (596 AD).
Later, the whole coastline, along with Amalfi, became property of the Duchy of Naples, until 839, when the city declared its independence and became an autonomous republic. The Maritime Republic of Amalfi was soon to become an important maritime commercial center, trading with the whole of the Italian peninsula, North Africa, the Middle East and the Byzantine Empire. The Republic bought spices, precious stones, carpets and fabrics from the Arabs, and sold them throughout Italy.
Soon, Amalfi's wealth not only attracted the attention of pirates, who were promptly driven back by the city's army, it also became the target of neighboring states. In 1131, after a long succession of attacks, Amalfi was annexed to the Kingdom of Sicily, although still retaining a certain degree of autonomy in the management of maritime commercial affairs. Gradually, commercial relations with the East began to dwindle, checked by the policies of the Normans and Pisans, who landed on the coast in 1135, to plunder and destroy whatever they found there
The opulence of the Maritime Republic was by now but a memory, and maritime trade was limited to rare contacts with Southern Italy. A brief scientific and cultural revival occurred around the 1200s, the century in which Giovanni Gioia of Amalfi invented the compass.
Over the following centuries, Amalfi's population dropped considerably, mainly due to the continuing attacks on the zone by pirates. But the greatest disaster hit the region in 1643, when the plague took the lives of a third of the coastal population. One of the results of this tragedy was the progressive impoverishment of the area, aggravated by the interruption in maritime trade. The economy began to converge on the cultivation of olives, vines, and citrus fruits and on the crafts industry.
Around the second half of the 19th century the Amalfi coast began its revival thanks to tourism, and artists such as Ibsen and Wagner drew inspiration from the region for some of their famous works, further fanning the curiosity of travelers to the coast.
- Vico Equense
This ancient town is located on a rocky spur overlooking the Gulf of Naples, protected on its other side by lush hills, and watched by the towering Mount Faito. (1400m). This delightful scenery makes Vico Equense one of the best destinations for all those looking for a relaxing retreat, full of art, history and natural beauty.
- Massa Lubrense
This pretty town has one of the best views in the whole of the peninsula, a great many ancient farmhouses to visit, and typical Mediterranean vegetation. Massa Lubrense is the ideal place for a vacation: permanent spring weather, breathtaking views and an enchanting historical center. At the heart of the town is Largo Vescovado, a charming balcony overlooking the sea, where you can admire the 16th century Santa Maria delle Grazie Church.
- Positano
Enticing and charming, with white houses climbing up the rock face, overlooking the blue sea, Positano is one of the most romantic towns along the coast. Since 1800, the magic of the town has fascinated writers and artists from all over the world, such as Goethe, Steinbeck, Picasso and Diaghilev. Even the world of cinema was seduced by its beauty: Rome's legendary Dolce Vita found its home from home right here in Positano. After a relaxing stroll through the streets of the town center, why not take a visit to the Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta, a church that dates back to the 1200s, which is home to a wonderful Byzantine icon called “Madonna di Positano”.
- Furore
This ancient town has roman origins, and is situated inside a fjord of the same name, overlooking the blue Tyrrhenian and protected by the Lattari Mountains. A unique, breathtaking view that must not be missed, if you are in the Amalfi area.
- Ravello
350m above sea level, Ravello is one of the most fascinating places along the Amalfi Coast with a rich history. Its wonderful view has fascinated and inspired writers such as Gore Vidal (who has lived here for years), actors such as Greta Garbo and composers such as Richard Wagner, who composed his Parsifal here.
Do not miss the magnificent Villa Rufolo, whose gardens host the Wagnerian concerts every summer, Villa Cimbrone, with its wonderful view overlooking the whole of the coastline, and the Saint Panthaleon Cathedral, with its 13th century bell tower.
- Vietri sul mare
This town is just 3km from Salerno, the provincial capital. Overlooking the Gulf of Salerno, Vietri sul mare is a kind of terrace at the center of which rises San Liberatore mountain. Marina di Vietri, with its wide beaches and clear blue sea, stretches out at the feet of Vietri. Don't miss the 17th century Saint John the Baptist Cathedral, with its great majolica-tiled dome.
- Praiano
At the time of the Maritime Republic of Amalfi Praiano was the summer residence of the Doges. Situated between Positano and Amalfi, this town is still charming today. It is between 80 and 180m above sea level and has a wonderful view and enviable climate. In the higher part of town, visit the Church of Saint Luke the Evangelist, patron saint of the town. The lower part gently leads down into Marina di Praia, a pretty seaside resort, protected by a medieval Sea Tower.
How to get there
The Sorrento Peninsula is easily reached thanks to its proximity to cities like Naples and Salerno and thanks to highways that quickly connect to the rest of Italy.
By car
To Sorrento: those coming from Rome or from the north must take highway A1 up to Naples, continue on A3 towards Salerno, exit at Castellamare and continue on state highway 145 up to Sorrento. Coming from the south, travel on A3 just after Salerno, exit at Castellamare and continue on state highway 145.
To Amalfi: Those coming from Rome and from the north must take highway A1 and A30 up to Salerno, exit at Salerno Centro and continue on state highway 163 Costiera Amalfitana until destination. From Naples take instead highway A3 up to the exit at Vietri sul Mare and then continue on state highway 163 up to destination. Coming from the south, travel on A3, and exit at Salerno Centro and continue on state highway 163.
By train
To Sorrento: getting to Sorrento by train is easy. The Central Station of Naples is well connected to all of Italy. Once you reach Naples, "Ferrovia Circumvesuviana" (below Central Station) has many connections to Sorrento.
To the Amalfi Coast: the nearest station is at Salerno, which is connected by many trains to all of Italy. From Salerno you may take a taxi, a SITA bus, or a ferry. For times please consult the Trenitalia site or call the green number 89 20 21.
By sea
From Naples Beverello Wharf, the pier in front of Castel Nuovo, many hydrofoil and ferries depart for Sorrento; the hydrofoils (aliscafi) are twice as fast as the ferries and the service is usually more frequent in summer. From Beverello Wharf, during May to October, there are two daily runs to Amalfi with Metṛ del Mare.
From Salerno there are regular connections operated by Coop to Amalfi and other coastal centers. Sant'Andrea (Info: +39.089.873190), Metṛ del Mare (Info: +39.081.5514037) and Alicost (Info +39.089.234892).
By plane: Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP) offers connections to all Italian cities and major European destinations with traditional or low-cost airline companies. From the Arrival area of the Airport there is a daily bus service to Sorrento provided by Curreri (tel. +39.081.8015420). The nearest Intercontinental Airport is Rome's Fiumicino (FCO), with the possibility of getting to Naples by air besides the train.
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